"The first time that you are thrown forward towards the beach by the white water is the moment when it changes, the moment you become hooked. You paddle or run back out and try to catch another wave as you want to experience that feeling again. You then start planning when you can next rent a board or when you can get to the beach again.
From there it spirals to getting a board and wetsuits and checking the forecast and, bit by bit, it starts to take over your life.
There are too many thing to list that people do once they have discovered the joy of riding waves but this book hopefully shows the minutiae of life that is the most important to the wave-rider. The everyday that makes waiting for the next surf seem so important and fun."
Salt & Wax is a new photography coffee book coming from Mark Leary. Revolver should be getting it soon!